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DeSOTO AT CHICKASAW BLUFFS 


By JUDGE J;: P, YOUNG 


Reprinted from the Publications of the Mississippi Historical Society, 

Centenary Series, Volume II, 1918 



DE SOTO AT CHICKASAW BLUFFS 


A Review of the Works of Various Historians of the Great 

Spaniard’s Life.* 

By Judge J. P. Young. 

An article entitled “Discovery of the Mississippi,” which ap- 
peared in The Commercial Appeal of Feb. 18, ult., from the pen 
of Dr. Dunbar Rowland, director, Mississippi Department of 
Archives and History, and the conclusions reached by the learned 
historian as to the point at which DeSoto first saw the great 
river, calls for a challenge from the people of Memphis, to 
whom he appeals for an indorsement. To assent would be to 
tamely surrender what they have so fondly claimed for nearly a 
century, the distinction of living about the site of the village at 
which it was discovered in 1541, the Indian hamlet of Chisca. 
The author of the article says : 

“I freely admit in the outset that the claim of Memphis as the 
place where the great river was discovered has been accepted by 
some Memphians, but the acceptance has been based no doubt on 
the narrative of Garcilaso de la Vega, ‘The Inca,’ which careful 
and complete ‘investigation has shown to be unreliable and not 
in accord with the narratives and facts as given in all contempor- 
ary accounts.” 

Which particular Memphians our good friend intends to de- 
scribe by the adjective “some” in this paragraph is not made clear, 
but playfully, we with equal freedom are willing to admit that 
there are about, say, 100,000 of the class described now living on 
the lower Chickasaw Bluff, and they are as jealous as the abor- 

*Reply to the foregoing paper by Judge J. P. Young, Circuit Judge of 
Shelby county, Tennessee. 

( 149 ) 


150 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


iginal Chickasaw would have been of this invasion of their be- 
loved title to a distinction justly belonging to them. 

But, seriously, let us examine the article of Dr. Rowland, who 
is a man of great learning and high repute, and carefully weigh 
his claim that we have fallen into a great historical error in ac- 
cepting a tradition or legend as a truth. The writer is himself a 
native of Mississippi, though a citizen by adoption of Tennessee 
for more than half a century, and would not wantonly remove 
one olive leaf from the brow of his mother state. No historian 
or investigator, however, has any proprietorship in the history of 
any place or era. He cannot even be original in history, except 
in rare instances, perhaps, in treating of contemporary events of 
which he has had personal observations, but is limited to weigh- 
ing and comparing the writings of others in order to reach the 
truth. 

In the article referred to Dr. Rowland lays down these postu- 
lates as the basis of his attacks on the “cherished traditions” of 
Memphis. 

First — That there are only four sources of information as to 
the journey of DeSoto, viz.: The “Narrative of the Gentleman 
of Elvas,” “the largest and one of the most accurate”; the nar- 
rative of Louis Hernando de Biedma, the factor of the expedi- 
tion, “which is highly colored and unreliable” ; the “History of 
Hernando De Soto and Florida,” by Garcilaso de Vega, “the In- 
ca.” “which is the least trustworthy,” and the official report of the 
expedition which Rodrigo Ranjel, the secretary of DeSoto, drew 
up from his diary, and which “is accepted as the standard and 
best account.” He gives Dr. Edward Gaylord Bourne of Yale 
as his authority for these estimates. 

Second — To quote: “My contention is that the Mississippi was 
discovered in Tunica County, Miss., at Willow Point, which the 
map of De ITsle, made in 1718, places about 30 miles in a 
straight line below Memphis, in Tunica County. Not a map, 
so far as I know, gives Memphis the honor of being the point at 
which the Mississippi was discovered.” 

Third — Dr. Rowland refers to the article of Theodore Hayes 
Lewis, appearing in “Publications of the Mississippi Historical 


viri 


DeSoto at Chickasaw Bluffs — Young. 


151 


Society.” Vol. VI, in 1902, as “the most painstaking and accurate 
study of the route of DeSoto/’ and quotes him, as saying of the 
march of DeSoto from the Tallahatchie River at or near New 
Albany, Miss., to the Mississippi River : 

“The army left this inclosed place (an Indian fort, Alibamo, 
where there was a battle), turning to the westward. According 
to Elvas the country they were now passing through was a wild- 
erness of thick forests, having many marshy places that were 
fordable and some basins and lakes (sluggish streams) that were 
not. In another place, he says, the land was low, abounding in 
lakes. Ran j el says they passed over bad roads leading through 
woods and swamps. This part of the route lay wholly within the 
State of Mississippi, for had it been towards Memphis they would 
have passed through a hilly region instead of one of swamps. 
* * * At noon on Sunday, May 8, they arrived at the first 
town in Quisquis and carried it by sudden assault. * * * 
The crossing was made either at Council Bend or Walnut Bend, 
in Tunica County, in a straight line some 25 to 38 miles below 
Memphis. De l'lsle (1718) seems to have been the first geog- 
rapher to attempt to map the route and he places the crossing at 
Pointe de Oziers (Willow Point), but the place cannot be iden- 
tified. D’Anville (1755) shows Point d’Oziers plainly enough as 
being about half way between the mouths of the St. Francis and 
White rivers ; but this is too far down. * * * The Memphis 

theory of the location of Quisquiz and the crossing which is based 
upon the Inca’s account, is untenable, and a fair analysis or re- 
view of his statements will show that neither the town nor the 
crossing was located at that point.” 

Fourth — The scholarly study of Mr. Lewis was published in 
1902 and no historian has thought it wise to question his conclu- 
sions. 

Fifth — My purpose in presenting this question is to correct 
what I believe to be an error, which has almost become an ac- 
cepted fact among some well informed, intelligent people. If I 
am depriving the great and prosperous City of Memphis of one of 

her most cherished traditions, let me assure her people that I do 
so with regret. 


152 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


To rapidly review the foregoing conclusions of Dr. Rowland, 
reference will first be simply made to his estimate of the nature 
of the several narratives of the DeSoto chroniclers, the authority 
for which is given as Prof. Edward Gaylord Bourne of Yale. We 
do not find in Prof. Bourne’s introduction any statement that the 
narrative of Biedma is ‘‘highly colored and unreliable,” but he 
does say that “Biedma’s Relation possesses the important advant- 
age of being the official report of a king’s officer ; but it is brief 
and is given as a whole with comparatively few details, except as 
to directions and distances.” 

Of the History of Florido and DeSoto by Garcilaso de la Vega, 
Prof. Bourne, after reviewing the work of the Portuguese gentle- 
man, says, “Next in order of publication and equal in fame comes 
‘La Florida del Inca.’ ” And in another place writes : “In mak- 
ing another (narrative of DeSoto), a descendant of the Incas of 
Peru transmitted the tale of hardships and meetings with the 
Indians, friendly and hostile, into an old romance of chivalry — 
the first and certainly the most celebrated one dealing with an 
American theme — in which a groundwork of fact is richly em- 
broidered by the author’s imagination, with romantic details, into 
a whole so full of charm as to have beguiled even professed his- 
torians.” 

Much has been written by critics to disparage the Inca’s narra- 
tive, because out of harmony with the other three narrators in ad- 
ding details and incidents not referred to by the latter. It seems 
reasonable to suppose, however, that these differences arose, as 
similar phenomena have arisen in our own day, in the frequent 
and truthful sidelights thrown upon the stories of the battles and 
marches of the Civil War in the incidents related by the survivors, 
which do not appear in the official reports of the commanders, or 
in the official army itineraries kept by the staff officers. Garcilaso 
was not present with DeSoto, nor were his modern critics. But 
Garcilaso had the acquaintanceship of several survivors and his 
critics have nothing but the official reports and diaries. For in- 
stance, Garcilaso says: “The Spaniards departed from the en- 
campment of Alibamo (on the Tallahatchie River), still march- 
ing towards the north to avoid the sea.” Theodore Hayes Lewis 


DeSoto at Chickasaw Bluffs — Young. 


153 


says : “On Saturday, April 30, the army left this inclosed place, 
turning to the westward." The first course would take DeSoto 
towards the lower Chickasaw Bluff. The latter would take him 
to the Mississippi in the vicinity of Moon Take, in Coahoma 
County, Miss. Garcilaso had in this instance the statement of 
survivors. Mr. Lewis had no guide whatever, as the other three 
narrators do ! not mention the direction of the march. Let us as 
historians be fair in this inquiry. 

Taking up next the second postulate of Dr. Rowland, as noted 
above, viz: “My contention is that the Mississippi River was dis- 
covered in Tunica County, Miss., at Willow Point, which the 
Map de ITsle made in 1718 places about 30 miles in a straight 
line below Memphis, in Tunica County/’ This must be an inad- 
vertance on the part of Dr. Rowland. The map of De ITsle 
("Amsterdam edition, 1707, but the same as above referred to) 
shows clearly the assumed route of DeSoto, and places the cross- 
ing at Pointe de Oziers (Willow Point), midway between the 
mouth of the Arkansas River and Lac des Michigamea, adjoining 
the mouth of St. Francis River and 80 miles in a straight line be- 
low Memphis instead of in Tunica County, 30 miles below, as 
claimed by Dr. Rowland. In addition to this, the writer has 
before him the map of Lieut. Ross of the British army, “taken 
on an expedition to the Illinois in the latter end of the year 1765, 
improved from the survey of the river made by the French.” 
This map places the crossing of DeSoto on the thirty- fourth par- 
allel about five miles below “Oziers Point,” which on this map 
is about midway between the mouths of the St. Francis and Ar- 
kansas rivers. But these old French and English maps are not 
reliable guides, as the cartographers had less information from 
the DeSoto narratives than is now available and infinitely less 
knowledge of the country through which DeSoto marched than 
the school boy of today. 

And, referring next to the third contention of Dr. Rowland, in 
which he quotes so fully and approves the study of Theodore H. 
Lewis of DeSoto’s march from the Tallahatchie River to the 
Mississippi River at “Council Bend,” or at “Walnut Bend,” in 
Tunica County, Miss., as set out above. Mr. Lewis argues from 


154 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


the character and topography of the country between Alibamo 
and Council Bend, as compared with that between the same point 
and Memphis, as described by the narrators in the DeSoto nar- 
ratives, that the former was swampy and the latter high and hilly. 
In this Dr. Rowland is perhaps again not fortunate. The writ- 
er has passed over both routes several times, and they are prac- 
tically identical if the route lay north of the Tallahatchie Swamps, 
in topographic characteristics and elevations, except the last 12 
or 15 miles of approach to Council Bend and Walnut Bend, 
which is in the alluvial basin of the delta, so-called, and is flat and 
swampy. 

Finally, on this subject, in his fourth contention, Dr. Rowland 
says : 

“The scholarly study of Mr. Lewis was published in 1902 and 
no historian has thought it wise to question his conclusions.” 

Perhaps not more than one history, written since 1902, has 
questioned his conclusions. But among historians writing before 
1902 many noted ones have taken a different view and arrived at 
opposite conclusions as to DeSoto's point of crossing the great 
river. Bancroft says, volume 1, page 51, he crossed “probably 
at the lowest Chickasaw Bluff, not far from 35 parallel of lati- 
tude. John Gilmary Shea, writing in and for Winsor’s Narra- 
tive and Critical History of America, volume 2, page 291, states : 
“As to the point of DeSoto crossing the Mississippi, there is a 
very general agreement on the lowest Chickasaw Bluff.” 

The great Mississippi historian, J. F. H. Claiborne, in his Mis- 
sissippi As a Territory and State, volume 1, page 8, thus describes 
the discovery : 

“Still shaping his course to the northwest, he struck the great 
river at the lower Chickasaw Bluff, just below old Fort Picker- 
ing, in May, 1541. Any route from the Chickasaw Old Fields 
south of the one assumed would have carried him into the im- 
penetrable swamps of the Yalobusha and Tallahatchie and their 
tributaries, where there were no paths and no footing for men 
or horses.” 

J. G. M. Ramsey, the Tennessee historian, in the Annals of 
Tennessee, 1853, writes: 


DeSoto at Chickasaw Bluffs — Young. 


155 


“it is generally conjectured that Chisca, the village near which 
DeSoto was encamped, and which bore the name of the chieftain 
of the province through whose territories the Spaniards were 
passing, occupied the site of the present thriving City of Mem- 
phis, and that the point where they crossed the Mississippi was 
near the Chicasaw Bluff/' 

J. M. Keating, in his history of Memphis, 1888, describes the 
approach of DeSoto to the mighty river thus : 

‘‘They entered the village of Chisca near the high mound which 
overlooks the great river, where it divides to flow southward on 
either side of what is known as President's Island/’ 

Another similar view of DeSoto’s approach to the Mississippi 
River at Memphis is expressed in Young’s History of Memphis, 
1912, in these words : 

“ Comparing these four narratives (Elyas', Biedma’s, Ranjel's 

and Richelet’s version of Garcilaso, given in full in the text, of 
the march from the Tallahatchie River), which are in peculiar 
agreement with each other, except the last, it can readily be seen 
that Ranjel, in speaking of the villages a league apart to which 
the Spaniards moved in turn for the purpose of obtaining pro- 
visions, was merely describing the usual group of villages which 
went to make up a settlement among these Indians, such as the 
Spaniards found in the Chickasaw towns in Pontotoc County, 
Mississippi, and in no way contradicts the other narratives. The 
fact seems to be that DeSoto came upon the town of Chisca, 
where the great mound was and still remains, which was near 
tpe wide river with a forest between, and then, without reaching 
the river, he moved from village to village on the bluff for more 
convenient access to corn or maize, by which his army was sup- 
ported, and Anally pitched his camp under the bluff at the foot of 
a ravine, probably near the mouth of Wolf River and within 
crossbow shot of the water, where he constructed and launched 
his boats.” 

We can, in conclusion, question the statement of Dr. Rowland 
that the views of “some Memphians as to the place of discovery 
and crossing of the Mississippi” has been based no doubt on 
the narrative of Garcilaso de la Vega, the Inca, which careful 


15G 


Mississippi Historical Society. 


and complete investigation has shown to be unreliable and not in 
accord with the narrative and facts as given in all contemporary 
accounts. 

There are but two facts mentioned in Garcilaso’s narrative 
which aid effectively in locating Memphis as the site of the vil- 
lage of Chisca, or Quizquiz, as some wrote it, where DeSoto first 
found the river. 

These are, first, “That Spaniards departed from the encamp- 
ment of Alibamo, still marching towards the north to avoid the 
sea,” as translated by Irving; or, “The Spaniards, in leaving Ali- 
bamo, marched across a waste country, bearing always towards 
the north in order to get further away from the sea,” as rendered 
by Richelet, and second, that Chisca, the chief, lived on “a high 
mound which commanded a view of the whole place.” There are 
merely details added to the other three narratives and in no way 
contradict them. John G. Shea, in his chapter on Ancient Flor- 
ida, written for Winsor’s history, above referred to, says on page 
290, volume VI : “The spirit of exaggeration which pervades 
throughout this volume (Garcilaso’s narrative) has deprived it 
of esteem as an historical authority, though Theodore Irving and 
others have accepted it.” But on the next page, 291, he says : “As 
to the point of De Soto’s crossing the Mississippi there is a very 
general agreement on the lowest Chickasaw bluff.” 

There is another most persuasive fact well established by many 
writers which points to Memphis as the point of De Soto’s cross- 
ing, viz., that an ancient trail existed from the lower Chickasaw 
bluff, southeastward to the Chickasaw old fields and from there 
it is traced still southeastward, by Claiborne, to the Choctaw 
crossing of the Tombigbee at Lincacums Shoals, just above the 
mouth of Tibbee Creek, and along which it is generally agreed 
that DeSoto* marched to Chickasaw in December, 1540. It was 
this trail he followed to the Chickasaw Bluff, as Claiborne con- 
tends. The Portuguese narrative states, in describing the march 
to Alibamo fort that the army had to pass a desert seven days’ 
journey in extent, and men were sent out to hunt for maize for 
the journey, and that “Juan de Anasco, the comptroller, went with 
15 horses and 40 foot on the course the governor would have to 


DeSoto at Chickasaw Bluffs — Young. 


157 


march and found a staked fort where the Indians were awaiting 
them/’ This fort, Alibamo, was at Rocky Ford, on a high hill 
overlooking the Tallahatchie River, and in almost an airline from 
the Village of Chicacilla. De Soto began his long march to the 
lower Chickasaw bluff along the famous Chickasaw trail to the 
bluffs above mentioned, and not manifestly along the route indi- 
cated by Mr. Lewis. 

In 1849 Frederick P. Stanton, the congressman from the Mem- 
phis district, was instrumental in having the celebrated painting 
of De Soto discovering the Mississippi River made for the na- 
tional capitol at Washington, and suggested the features of the 
picture to Powell, the artist. This was at the period when the 
march of DeSoto was being most widely discussed by the histor- 
ians and the public and -the great historic painting was approved 
by the nation. 

This article has been written in reply to Dr. Rowland only to 
get at the truth of history so far as it sheds light on the story of 
De Soto’s discovery, and is confidently submitted to the discern- 
ing judgment of the public and in the broadest spirit of good will 
towards Dr. Rowland, the eminent and learned writer. We be- 
lieve that it plainly proves that the leading historians, except Dr. 
Theodore Lewis and his supporter, Dr. Rowland, have correctly 
placed the discovery and crossing at the lower Chickasaw bluffs, 
where Memphis now stands. 



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